Sanagan’s Meat Locker was one of the first shops that caught our eye when we moved to the neighborhood. Walking past the window, the beautiful cuts are laid out in a way that makes you want to cook. Or learn to cook, if needed. Or maybe open a whole restaurant. Their shop window makes it easy to dream big.
Despite my desire to drop my entire professional trajectory and immediately become an expert in whatever was happening in that window, we started simple. Burgers.
It was my Dad’s birthday, he was coming to visit me in Canada for the first time. We wanted it to be a fun and special meal. He loves burgers, it’s his favorite birthday dinner. (Also cupcakes. Sadly, Sanagan’s doesn’t sell those although I’m sure if they did, it would be incredible.) So we figured we’d fire up our grill for the first time, and have a fun evening on our back porch.
Reader, I’ve never had burgers this good.
Despite my enthusiasm in this particular blog post, I’ve never gotten particularly excited about burgers. I mean, they’re burgers right? Oh my. These are BURGERS. It’s indicative of the store that something so simple stands out so much.
Sanagan’s describes itself as “a chef-driven butcher shop that sources the highest quality and best tasting meats and foodstuffs from Ontario family farms.” So it’s meat you feel good about eating, if you’re so inclined. And it tastes like it.
Founded by Peter Sanagan just over 10 years ago, the first location was in Kensington Market. Founding staff came from the restaurant industry and Peter wanted to bring the same-high quality meats to their customers. About three years ago, they expanded to the East End, the neighborhood where Peter himself grew up. Neighborhood resident and Sanagan’s employee Cole Howson was eager to help them establish a shop in his own community, and is now Manager of our local Sanagan’s outpost. Cole couldn’t be happier, “We have been here for about three years now, and each year is better than the last.”
Much of what makes Cole most proud is deeply connected to the store culture, especially during the pandemic. While keeping up with what has felt like constantly changing guidance has been a challenge, the butcher shop was well set up for success. Detail cleaning is not new, and much of what has been required for COVID was already standard practice. Sanagan’s was already working on an online ordering system, which was accelerated during the pandemic but ready. Peter has been meticulous in communicating with customers, and provided deep support for the entire team. The company as paid benefits, Employee Assistance Programs, a generous company minimum wage, and paid emergency days. While at one point they were doing four times their normal work to meet the demand of customers cooking at home more, they had the support to keep up and stay safe. “No one had to worry about losing their job if they didn’t feel comfortable coming into work,” Cole says. Not to be taken for granted as we watch this current wave.
For our little family, Sanagan’s has become synonymous with fancy dinners in a difficult time. Spending the holidays across a closed border from my parents, their present to us was online gift cards that have kept us well stocked for the important occasions. Turkey for Thanksgiving. Beef Wellington for Christmas. French-cut pork chops for Valentine’s Day. Steaks for birthdays, anniversaries, or the celebration of a new job. More Turkey for Easter – because Aaron doesn’t like ham, but I digress. And the Pairing Club Events they join with The Pantry‘s Jeremy Lago and Beer Sommelier Justin Spencer deserve an entire post of their own – forthcoming.
It’s been a tough year. Sanagan’s has made the bright spots a little brighter, made the holidays warmer, and has given us a sense of celebration even when things feel like never ending grey. It’s how we mark the moments we really need to remain special, with food that matches the occasion, even if we don’t leave our backyard.
PS: Did I mention the hot sauce? Fermented. Amazing. Get the hot sauce. Also the pâté. Just buy the whole damn store.
The Backyard Projects 